| “Vacuum Condenser” light won’t go off | Usually clogged condenser coils or a failing condenser fan motor. The single most common Sub-Zero call we get in Bellevue — and the cheapest fix on this list. |
| Fresh-food section warm, freezer still cold | On dual-refrigeration models the two sections are independent: typically a frosted refrigerator evaporator, failed defrost terminator or evaporator fan motor. |
| EC 50 error — excessive refrigerator compressor run time | The control has logged the refrigerator compressor running too long (EC 40 is the freezer-side equivalent) — dirty condenser, failing fan or a sealed-system refrigerant leak. We measure pressures to tell which before quoting. |
| Ice maker stopped making ice | Frozen fill tube, weak water inlet valve or a failed ice-maker module. On UC-15I units, scale on the evaporator plate is the usual culprit. |
| Water pooling under or inside the unit | Clogged defrost drain trough or a cracked water line feeding the ice maker — we clear the drain and check the drain heater. |
| Frost or ice on the back wall | Defrost system failure (heater, terminator or control) or a door gasket that no longer seals — heavy built-in doors also drift out of adjustment over time. |
| Loud buzzing, clicking or rattling | Compressor start device cycling on overload, or a condenser/evaporator fan hitting frost. Worth fixing quickly before the compressor itself is stressed. |
| Door doesn’t close or seal properly | Worn gasket or hinge adjustment. On panel-ready Designer models, an over-heavy custom panel is often the cause — we rebalance the hinges. |